T-1
Engine Case Inspection
Below you will find a very important list of visual inspections that need to
be performed before you proceed with the rebuilding of any Volkswagen T-1
engine case. Once the case has been completely disassembled it’s time to see
if the case is good enough to use again for your project.
1.
Start first with a quick wipe down of both
surfaces of the case halves so no grit will interfere with the alignment of
the case halves. Put the case back together and torque the six center main
studs.
2.
Hold a light at the pulley end and look through the center of the case where
the crank would sit. Looking at the center main saddle of the case see if
you notice any light showing between the case halves. If you notice light
between the case halves you will need to replace the engine block. This is
usually caused from either the main studs coming loose, over-revving of the
engine repeatedly, or long periods of a low oil level running.
3.
If you see no light at the center main then your next step is to re-open the
case. Now look at the surface area that the main bearings rest against. If
you notice any ridges on the case, usually aligned where the oil would be
passing around the main bearing, then your case will need to be align bored.
This will give you a new surface for the main bearings to seat against and
avoid any tight spots. Reducing friction and wear and tear on your new main
bearings is especially critical on the initial start-up and break –in
period.
4.
The thrust area at the flywheel end of the engine case is the next area for
inspection. This area can sometimes be damaged, mostly as a result of
improper end play adjustment during flywheel installation. The thrust
bearing that sits in this area has a small flange around the outer edge that
wraps around the block. Looking at the area closest to the flywheel, inspect
this to see if the old bearing has left an impression in the engine case.
The engine case is made of magnesium, which is quite a soft metal. The stock
measurement of the thrust area in a T-1 engine case is 22mm. This area can
be machined twice with 1mm of material removed at each pass. The many
combinations of crank, main and thrust sizes are usually covered in the
bearing sizes in the market. In the event that a combination is not found
for your motor, it is possible that the case may need to be machined to a
larger size to accommodate bearings. This is very rare.
5.
Dowel Pin holes are your next stop in your inspection. Have a good look to
see if you notice any oval holes or if you notice that any of them are not
providing a decent friction fit. In the event that a hole is damaged, all is
not lost. A competent shop should have the ability to drill a hole on the
other half of the case to save the block. This will require a little more
care and attention when it comes time for assembly.
6.
Corrosion of the magnesium case is common problem, and more so if you are
picking up a used case that may have been exposed to the elements for some
time. Take the time to make sure critical areas that will be sealing the oil
in the engine are not pitted and corroded. If the areas are not too large, a
good product that can fix these areas is JB WELD.
7.
At this point, if your case has passed the list of inspections that I have
outlined here for you then go ahead and have the case cleaned. After the
case receives a complete and proper cleaning then have a good look at the
case studs. Here what you are looking for is that the threads are still in
good shape and not pulled or stripped. If you are working with the older
10mm cylinder head studs, check to see that none have come loose or removed
case material when you took the heads off. The 8mm style will have case
inserts threaded into the block, it is very seldom that they will pull out
when the heads are removed. Either way these areas are easily repaired with
the replacement of the old insert back into the case, or a new one
re-inserted.
8.
The final step will be to find a shop in your area that can perform the
necessary machining to your case. Please make certain that the shop you
choose has experience with this type of engine. Although they may seem like
a simple and quite basic engine, they do require some specialized tools and
knowledge to get the job done right.
9.
After you have received your engine case back from the machine shop you
should have the sizes and specifications needed to make your bearing
purchase. There are only a couple of manufactures of these and are not hard
to come by. For all of parts needs please come and visit us at our online
store. www.bowwow.com
10.
The final note that I suggest is to obtain a good quality repair manual
before taking on any extensive work on your vehicle.
All prices shown in Canadian funds.